1.30.2014

welcome to the jungle

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
Hi ya'll!  So I know the weather has been pretty much crazy all over, and I totally don't envy all you northeners and your frozen eyeballs, but man, here in Galveston it's pretty much been driving me in.sane. One day it's in the 60's, the next it's in the 30's... oy! What's a girl supposed to do? Or, perhaps a more pertinent question: What's a girl supposed to wear? I just can't get a grip. Is it gonna be warm(ish) or freakishly cold? Am I gonna be pelted with sleet on my bike commute, or showered in sunshine? (I know, I really can't complain, but I'm gonna do it anyway.) (Also, is there any worse way to start a blog post than by complaining about the weather? My life is officially boring. I have nothing of interest to say anymore... apparently!)

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
Since I don't have any good chit-chat for you today, let's just jump into the meat n' potatoes, shall we?? I'm super excited to be sharing my first make for the Mood Sewing Network with you guys today - a pair of cropped trousers made with this fantastic Carolina Herrera coffee and white brocade! Generally speaking I like to let my choices in fabrics dictate what I'm going to make, since I'm a huge sucker for interesting textiles, and being let loose on Mood Fabrics' online inventory was like a crack addict being let loose on... I don't know... a pile of crack? (Ugh. Lame! What's with me today??) In the end, I decided to stick with a garment item I know I'll wear a ton (in this case, pants) but to challenge myself to use a fabric I've never worked with before. Which led me to Mood's amazing collection of brocades. Brocades you guys. How had I never explored these delicious fabrics before??

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
There were so many gorgeous brocades that were tempting me (like this one, and this one) and I could imagine them all as a fancy-pants pair of... well... fancy pants! (Gah! I did it again! I am need of a writing intervention!) But in the end I was sold on this incredibly unique polyester brocade.  It's truly unlike anything I've ever seen! Now normally I avoid polyester like the plague (in my climate, polyester usually means a prickly, sweaty mess), but Mood's description of this fabric as having an "abstract basketweave texture and ikat pattern" that is "simultaneously edgy and elegant" made me feel like passing this over simply because it is a synthetic would be a fabric tragedy of epic proportions. Also, I feel like somewhere along the line I heard someone much smarter than me say that modern synthetics get a bad rap based on the downfalls of their predecessors (read: every awesome late 60's, early 70's dress you ever thrifted that coated your back in sweat and hung on to your BO like it was it's job) but that new technologies are making synthetics almost as breathable as natural fibers. (I could have made all that up in a dream, but it sounds legit, right?) And let me tell you what, I'm so glad that I didn't let my fiber bias dissuade me from this fabric!

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
Okay.  I will admit that when this stuff arrived on my doorstep I may have wondered if my envisioned fancy pants may not end up looking more like crazy pants.  But then I wrapped the fabric this way, and that (like you do) took a couple of deep breaths, consulted my ever-wise gut (pfft!), and decided, no, these were gonna be some awesome pants. This fabric has a really wonderful texture - basketweave is one way to describe it, my husband keeps saying it looks like birch bark - and yet it's not stiff, or scratchy or bulky, or even difficult to work with. I cut my pants out on the cross grain because I really liked the way the pattern looked running down the front of my legs. Vaguely reptilian, but more geometric. I spent a little bit of extra time working with the pattern placement on these, making sure that each leg was a mirror image and that the strong horizontals and verticals met up.

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
I'll be honest, after getting my hands on this fabric, breathability really wasn't at the forefront of my concerns. Since this brocade definitely has some weight to it, it was pretty clear right off the bat that these would be winter pants, and I think the fabric worked great for that (although I could also see it making a really tremendous spring dress coat). And I have to say, I was truly surprised by how nicely this fabric presses, given it's texture and also that it's a polyester (I've always had miserable luck getting poly's to hold a crisp press).  This fabric just might make me rethink my polyester-ban!  I even left the pants unlined because the fabric felt fine against my skin. I did use some silky rayon bemberg lining in a lovely royal blue, also from Mood (here), for the pockets and to bind the inside of the waistband and leg hem, to add a pop of color to innards. I love little touches like that. However, you'll just have to take my word for it, because I forgot to get a shot of the insides. All other seams were simply serged and pressed flat.

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants 
I used Ralph Pink's Cigarette Pants Pattern in a size US8/UK10 for these. It was my first time using this pattern.  I liked the overall shape of the pants in the illustration - the trouser pockets, front fly, single-welt back pockets, and cropped length - but overall, sadly, I'm not in love with this pattern.  I think the main issue is just that they were not made for my figure. They turned out insanely huge through the hips and legs when I sewed them up as directed (like, clownishly huge) and I had to take them in a ridiculous amount along the side seams, seat, and really anywhere I could get at them without having to totally undo some tricky areas (like the fly). This threw off some of my carefully strategized pattern placing along the seams (bummer), and also rendered those cute trouser pockets almost completely useless! I can just fit my hand in there! And to add to my frustration, the finished waistband feels just a mite snug (obviously Mr. Pink is designing for a much curvier lady than me!) I based my size choice off of my body measurements as listed, which was taking a bit of a leap of faith, since I usually choose sizes based on finished garment measurements, however there were none to be found! In this case, some finished garment measurements would have been extremely useful! I was also kind of bummed out that the pattern sizes weren't nested, so I only received the one size with my purchase.

Mood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade PantsMood Fabrics Carolina Herrera Brocade Pants
But all pattern woes aside, I still think these pants turned out really great! I really love the combination of pairing an unexpected fabric with a basic, classic pattern to make an exciting statement piece to add to your wardrobe.  These pants pair great with a lot of the neutral tops in my closet, and they automatically make the outfit way more rock and roll! (As you might have guessed from my blog title, every time I look at these pants, this song keeps playing in my head, and I get an urge to do the Axel Rose shimmy... rather inexplicably really...) Now I just need a few more cold days so I can actually wear them!

xx


41 comments:

  1. Ooooh, despite your woes with the pattern, these pants are awesome on you!

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  2. I would NEVER have thought to use brocade for pants...or any clothing (I always thought it was a home dec fabric, LOL!) but these pants are awesome, so I'm glad you took that plunge! :-)

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  3. I love the idea of using a brocade for pants - and yours turned out great! And I totally know what you mean about the weather. I live in Austin and it's been yo-yo-ing like crazy here too. Freezing one day, 75º the next!

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  4. wow these look great!! i love the slim style, too bad the pattern gave you issues.

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  5. Gosh these look amazing!! You are so damn stylish. A really fantastic make for your first Mood one!

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  6. They look super cute and stylish, but my gosh I could not stop looking at those shoes. HOTTT

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  7. oh. My. God. These are gorgeous! Stunning first Mood make! I can't get over the brilliant print placement, front and back. Genius!

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  8. Wow. I hardly know what to say, these trousers are fantastic! Honestly, I think they are the most outstanding 'home-made' (sorry, I don't really like that expression, but can't think of another at the mo) garment I have seen since I have started reading sewing blogs (er - about 5 years ago!)!!!!
    I am in awe of your sewing skills and your gift at picking unusual (and amazing) fabrics.

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  9. These are insanely gorgeous! Now I want the same :)

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  10. This looks stunning! Reading the way you had to reduce the size after they were already cut out sounded like a sewing nightmare! I'm amazed you were able to make them come out so, well, right!!! They really look awesome....

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  11. Those pants are awesome! I love the little pockets and pattern placement, especially the line down the back of your legs. Perfect pairing with the blush shirt and mint shoes.

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  12. Wow Suzanna! That's such an amazing compliment! Thank you!! I'm beyond flattered!

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  13. Ha!! Now that I think of it... this fabric would look pretty rad on a chair...

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  14. Your fancy pants are awesome! Such a great statement piece and I love what you paired them with. They do remind me a bit of some kind of skin. Hope those poor polyesters didn't die a horrible death for your pants! :)

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  15. These are so great I want to rent a plane to fly over Texas with a banner saying "SALLIE OH'S ASS LOOKS AMAZING IN GALVESTON". Damn Gina. Seriously. I'm getting a sort of Isabel Marant vibe which is basically my favourite vibe ever (hence my screams of joy when I received one of her scarves from her H&M collection for Christmas). That fabric is intensely amazing and I'm super impressed its comfy to wear. Sucks about the Pink pants. Do you have less of a waist/hip ratio? Maybe that's why you struggled with the Colette trous too....

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  16. I love them! Ive been thinking about that exact ralph pink pattern for awhile now to make some patterned pants. It's good to hear your experience. If I decide to make them I will have to do a muslin first. Yours look awesome. i love the fabric. I love pants like these because I feel like they go from fancy to flats easily depending on what you pair with them.
    sounds like you need another visit out to nyc to pick out fabric in person!

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  17. Dude! I was totally thinking they had an Isabel Marant vibe too, but when I went to go look for which collection I thought I saw something similar in it was nowhere to be found! But I'm glad I'm not the only one!
    And yeah, I run pretty straight through the lower belly to the hips. I have a high waist, and I've got butt in the back, but not much curvature happening through the sides. I think that's why I like those Built By Wendy pants and Grainline's patterns, both of which are cut a little straighter. I knew as soon as I saw Pink's measurement chart that I was gonna have some fitting issues, but I wasn't quite prepared for HOW much!

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  18. Boom: http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2010RTW-IMARANT/#28

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  19. Boom, found it (this collection is soooo good - THOSE SHOES): http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/slideshow/F2010RTW-IMARANT/#28

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  20. Well you really knocked it out of the park, girl!! :) I LOOOOOVE these pants! They're sooo soooo rock star! :) I would never have guessed you had trouble with the pattern, they look that good! - but I can totally relate: I am forever taking excess ease out of hips and dealing with tight waistbands LOL. Why don't they all give us finished pattern measurements?? We're not ALL pear shaped! LOL (although I sometimes wish I was - it'd be much easier! LOL)


    Anyway, STUNNING!! I totally think you need a long jacket out of the same fabric now :D

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  21. You made it work and you are rocking this. I want this...

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  22. Wow! These look amazing! I absolutely love them! And your SHOES-- so cute! I also love the truck in the background. I'm thinking... maybe I should just plop down smack-dab in the middle of your life?

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  23. It was not one of my smarter moments, but I went to work without a coat in the morning (wasn't that cold!), and it was snowing by the time I got off. I was too cold to scrape the ice off the windshield; had to call my husband for help. I can't quite get the hang of this Texas weather… Beautiful pants Sallie--you rock that gorgeous fabric!

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  24. I was in New York for a couple of hours today (for work) and I snuck in 30 minutes to go to Mood. Their brocade fabric selection is amazing! I totally hear you. Pricey, but I think it's worth it. Love these pants, Sallie. Very J. Crew (and that's not a bad thing!).

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  25. I'm with you on the crazy weather in the south this week (hey, I talk about weather all the time...) These pants are definitely rock and roll. I'm glad you lifted your polyester ban for these. Super cool fabric!

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  26. Those look amazing! Nonstretch pants are one of my worst sewing fears! Well maybe life fears.... Yours look gorgeous! I might have to go over to Mood next week and see that fabric in person!

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  27. These are such cool pants! The pattern placement is genius - looks so great even with your unplanned alterations! The brocade is just so awesome! I may have to go check out these pants patterns as well, as I am of the curvier specimen :)

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  28. The fabric is incredible, and I'm so glad the pattern worked out in the end!

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  29. Oh I'm so jealous!

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  30. whoah sallie, pattern woes be damned, they turning out GORGEOUS. i just did a pair of brocade cigarette pants... i prolly could've done with mr pink's extra hip room :)

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  31. They're gorgeous and super cool! The fit looks really good too. I've got some brocade in my stash, but I'm afraid some of the treads might snag too easily for pants or a skirt.. How is your fabric snag wise? :D

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  32. Thanks Kim! These are pretty good, snag wise. They have a sort of fine mesh fused to the back which I think helps keep threads in place - but I could definitely see a more traditional brocade being a bit snag-prone.

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  33. Gorgeous Pants. The Fabric/Pattern combo is great.

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  34. These trousers ROCK! I love the brocade, the fit, everything. Shoes too.

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  35. Never would have guessed you had to re-think your print placement! These look fantastic and all of your fit adjustments paid off. Love those little camouflaged back pockets, too!

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  36. I love your whole outfit, Sallie! The colors are all so perfect together, especially with those shoes. And you look like a total model as usual

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  37. I'm never disappointed when I drop by your little corner of the world - what a killer print on that fabric!! I was interested to read about the pattern - I have this pattern myself and have been dying to try it (along with a million other things that my bottle-neck wedding dress is preventing me from sewing) and whilst you've definitely managed to save it (it looks gorgeous on you) - one word - bummer :( Regardless, you look amazing and I'm loving it with your pale pink blouse!

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  38. These are gorgeous! I love windowshopping for Mood fabrics, so far I've never ordered anything from the site because international shipping makes it so damn expensive :( And I'm so happy to hear that the pattern is probably designed for a curvier woman because I've been contemplating on getting the pattern for months, and since I am a much curvier woman than you are, this was exactly what I needed to hear!!

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  39. These pants DEFINITELY turned out amazing. They look too good. I love them!

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  40. Ha, I'm obviously working my way backwards through your posts, Sallie. Gorgeous pants! You make the best fancy pants. And you rock the one side tucked in, something I have tried like 5 times when taking pictures of my pants/jeans (so I can get the whole shot, right?) but it makes me look more like a playground accident than the French cool you got going on here. ;)

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